Here is an update on my 1/72 scale Russian Akula nuclear fast-attack submarine. The scratchbuilt sub began as a set of drawings and is now able to take to the seas although only on the surface at the moment. If you are interested in the process I used to fabricate the epoxy fiberglass hull using a set of scratchbuilt molds then visit my 1/72 Scale Akula Part I page.

The photos here cover scribing the hull, initial painting, some resin casting work and the first 'sea' trials.

-- Jerome

Resin Casting: I showed in Part I a picture of some of the RTV molds used to fabricate the rubbers, planes and hull mounted hydrophonic sensors. One set of sensors freshly cast can be seen in the mold. Notice the large resin injection ports and air escape ports. The mold is stood up on edge during fabrication and the resin is poured into the larger injection port. The part chamber is filled from the bottom up allowing air to escape out the smaller tunnels. When resin flows out the air tunnels you're done. This was the second set of sensors I made. You can see a black material embedded into the 'T' sensor on the left. This was added only after cleanly shearing the original set off the sub during its first trip to sea. If one looks closely at the pictures the sensors are visible on the sub during painting but missing on the shots of her in the water.

Scribing Bow: Scribing takes time and patience but fixing errors in scribing is an excersize in frustration. To avoid it, use a thin black marker and mark all the scribing lines prior to picking up the scriber. Then be sure to at least tape one side of the template to the hull while scribing. It is difficult to accurately hold a template to a smoothly curved fiberglass surface and scribe the line at the same time. Start by lightly scribing and then increase pressure only a little as you make multiple passes around the template. You don't have to go very deep and a thinner line will look better after painting then a deep gouge. Plus, mistakes are easier to avoid or fix when they do happen.

More scribing: Take your time and take breaks when needed. Don't worry, there will typically be plenty of it to do and it will still be there when you come back to it. I probably spent 12 to 16 hours transfering the lines from the plans to the hull and another 8 to 10 hours actually scribing them. All pits, dents and gouges were filled with a mixture of epoxy resin and Fiberglast's 101 Putty Mix Compound. The putty mixture is a blend of lightweight fillers, thixotropic silica and sandable talc that thickens the resin and provides a more sandable surface.

Attaching Control Surfaces: The stern control surfaces were adhered to the hull using the same resin and putty mixture as used to fill imperfections in the hull. Take care to properly align the appendage and keep the resin away from any moving parts.

On With The Paint: To get the sub to the water quickly for an upcoming boat show, I opted to to grab the cans of red, gray and black Krylon primer and go to it. I used a blue low-tack masking tape that provids sharp masking lines and started spraying. I sprayed the whole sub in two hours and it was dry. It is hard to beat the ol' Krylon for this type of paint job and touchups are a breeze. I do plan on repainting it to give it a more proper weathered look. Given that I have very little experience in weathering models and will need some practice, I am thinking an air-brush might be my next tool to purchase and then spend some of these winter days getting accustomed to it. I am sure open for helpful tips and suggestions in the area. The pictue shows the sub being prepared to receive a few touches of white paint. A waterline was added using 1/16" white drafting tape. Since then I have come across some 1/32" white pin-stripping from Micro-Mart which will probably be better suited for the job since it is thinner and will be able to make the tight radius at the stern without buckling. The draft markings were applied using dry transfers and the whole sub received a final clear dull coat. The small beige figure on the hull forward of the sail is a small 1/72 scale figurine.

Masts and Scopes: I hope to eventually have working periscopes and masts on the Akula. To test out how easy they would be to build, I first built a set for my 1/72 scale Thor Design and Development Alfa hull. They turned out fairly nice so I made a RTV mold of them in case I need more in the future. The originals were made from brass, aluminum and music wire.

Taig Lathe: The venerable Taig lathe is great for this type of work. I have made countless parts on it such as these masts and scopes and it has been a much appreciated addition to the workshop. I bought mine from a gentleman by the name of Nick Carter who operates as a retail distributer for Taig. He doesn't stock any parts. In fact your orders come directly from the manufacturer. Nick handles the financial transaction and passes a nice discount on to you. He also has put together a website full of tips and information on using the Taig lathe as well as Taig's mill or other small mills and lathes by different manufacturers. Visit Nick at Nick Carter's Taig Pages.

Finally Put to Sea: Here is a set of pictures of the Akula's first trip to 'sea'. This was at the 1999 Annual Boat Regatta held in St. Louis by the St. Louis Admirals Model Boat Club. A fine group of people indeed. The small tug in the photo is fellow SubCommittee member Paul Doman's Navy yard tug based on a plastic Lindberg kit. There is still much to do to the Akula. The CO2 ballast system still needs to be installed as well as the retractable bow planes. I also hope to add working torpedoes, lights and periscopes. Even a tube has been installed for a towed sonar array that extends from inside the hull out the tail of the towed sonar array pod atop the rudder. Hopefully she will be able to slip below the waves come next spring. And, of course, come back up!